hard to believe, but right in the middle of the beautiful buzz of the old town center, once you climbed up several stairs "the church" is very peaceful and quiet. it uses some IKEA-basics, but combines them with creative details to a great minimalistic style.
enrico and co. are really friendly people, coming up with great tips of what to see and do, etc.
the area might get touristy in high season, but it's very central, so you can basically walk everywhere within a 30-40 min. radius, if you want to. and walking you should!
napoli is amazing - once you leave a few blocks in the old town you'll hardly see any tourists, but lots of 'authentic' city life, mingled between centuries and centuries of art and history.
yes, napoli is chaotic, it's quite dirty and in some parts really poor - but wonderful. you'll find all the 'real life' stuff you'll have to look for very hard in other cities like rome, paris, london on almost every corner. not to mention pizza, pasta and coffee...